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Zinfandel--An American Classic

If there is a single grape variety that can be associated with the United States, it is without a doubt Zinfandel. It is California’s iconic grape, among the first vines to be planted there more than 150 years ago. Zinfandel has its somewhat controversial roots in Southern Italy’s Primitivo grape, which in turn might go back to the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. While Cabernet is the California King in terms of acreage planted and tons of fruit crushed, Zinfandel is the Crown Prince. Stylistically, Zinfandel has much in common with Australian Shiraz, in that one finds the grape used in every imaginable wine style: from light-bodied, Beaujolais-weight sippers to 17% ports; from light-hearted, sweetish White Zinfandels to high-extract, inky monsters that would get the attention of any connoisseur. With that in mind, it is easy to find a Zinfandel to suit whatever occasion one may encounter: aperitif, accompaniment for light snacks and cheese, tomato-based pasta or fish dishes, or service with the whole gamut of meats, especially grilled. Mediterranean and Provençal preparations are drawing considerable interest from hosts and home chefs at the moment, and Zinfandel is a perfect foil to the bold, earthy flavors found in these cuisines, adding a distinctive American flair.

Tangent: “Old Vine” vs. “Not.” Pure marketing tool, or term of substance? One sees and hears the term “Old Vine” associated more with Zinfandel than any other varietal in America. (It is also bandied about a great deal in Burgundy.) But out in California, it brings visions of gnarly old head-pruned vines, 50-100 years of age, dry-farmed, on a hillside. The idea here is that truly old vines have a more extensive root system, which probes more deeply into the often meager soils in search of nutrients. These vines also struggle to produce fewer, smaller bunches of grapes, which concentrate the intensity of flavors. Some vineyard managers and farmers swear that this superior fruit adds a dimension and nuance of flavor which younger vines lack; others maintain that young vines can mimic these characteristics through careful vineyard management such as the avoidance of over-cropping. Top sources for ancient plantings are the Sierra Foothills of Amador County, Dry Creek, Geyserville and Lytton Springs in Northern Sonoma County, and of course, Napa Valley, especially around Oakville. If you have never had an “Old Vine” Zin from a heralded master such as Paul Draper at Ridge, Ravenwood’s Joel Peterson or Kent Rosenblum’s winery, you will be amazed at the concentration and depth of complex flavors that can be coaxed from the grape. This complexity in part is due to a unique challenge posed by Zinfandel. The grape bunches do not ripen uniformly, making it impossible to pick at the perfect moment of ripeness. But this is what adds to the dynamic flavor profile we associate with Zin. The unripe grapes add bright acidity, overripe berries provide depth and concentration, while the perfect ones add ripe, round fruit flavors. A winemaker will often tout the age of the vines on the label, easing the search for those interested in finding Old Vine vineyards. So, Old Vine distinction--fact or fiction? This is an area that begs further testing.

Tom Clark

This month the Tasting Crew sampled and savored an array of mid-range Zins. While the price of a top quality Cab or Pinot can easily set you back three to four "Andrew Jacksons, there is a plethora of fine Zinfandels to be had below $30. Check out our lineup:

Employee Reviews

Damon's Review
Dry Creek Vineyard
2005 Heritage Zinfandel
Sonoma County $18.99

With apologies to the late, great Lester Bangs;

Yum, Yum, Yum!

Enough said!




Mary's Review
Dashe Dry Creek Zinfandel 2006
Sonoma, North Coast, California
$26.49

These days, Zinfandels usually fall into two distinct categories; the jammy, slap you in the face style and the more eloquent, subtle approach. This exceptional offering falls right in between the two thanks to the talents of the winemakers.

There is plenty of rich raspberry/blackberry fruit up front, but it gives way to a velvety richness with some spice and pepper so that you won’t forget that it is truly a Zinfandel. Nice to have now and will only improve over the next five to seven years. Definitely a must try.




Clark's Review
Neyer’s Zinfandel High Valley Vineyard 2005 Napa Valley $29.99

Deep ruby with nice clarity. The nose is packed with raspberry, cherry and most of the berry family. You get the impression this is going to be a fat overdone Zin, but the palate is surprisingly elegant with subtle fruit and a definite spiciness. The velvety mouth feel adds richness. Unlike many Zin’s, this beauty processes nice fine tannins. The finish is long and satisfying. Great with pizza and barbeque. Drink now. The source for these grapes is the Chiles Valley, made famous by the Green and Red Winery.





Tom's Review
Titus 2004 Napa 25.49

Titus is a second generation family winery piloted by brothers Eric and Phillip Titus, the farmer and winemaker respectively. They focus on limited production, ultra-premium red wines from their 40 acres of vines located along the Silverado Trail in Napa. Their 2004 Zin has everything we should be looking for in a well-made Zinfandel: full bodied fruit with a touch of leathery spice and briar, with a special quality that can only be described as “berryish,” but what I consider a hallmark of the variety. A splash of Petite Syrah is blended in for better color and depth, much in the fashion at Ridge. It has a firm structure suited for laying down for a year or so, but is irresistible for immediate consumption. As this vineyard has been the source for Zinfandel for over a century, it is a fine wine to pick out as an “Old Vine” candidate for a comparative tasting.




Clayton's Review
Edmeades 2005 Zinfandel
Mendocino County $17.99

Edmeades is a winery that specializes solely in single vineyard Zinfandels. The wine I tasted was their 2005 Mendocino County Zinfandel. Let me just say that as soon as the taste had settled on my palate I was reminded of Aaron Neville’s titanic lyrics “I don’t know much (about Zinfandels), but I know I love you (you being the Mendocino County Zinfandel). More to the point this wine has wonderfully deep flavors of black cherry and raspberry and great balance for such a full-bodied wine. I absolutely loved it and it seems the perfect match for the still chilly spring weather that will soon be upon us. This bottle would pair well with spicy Italian or maybe some barbecue.



Joe S's Review
EOS 2004 Zinfandel
Pas Robles $13.99

Paso Robles has long been an ideal climate for the production of Zinfandel with it’s long, hot days and cool nights. This 2004 Zinfandel from EOS is a wine that shows off the varietal power that this region is famous for.  The wine starts out with big fruit up front, then finishes with flavors of cherry, spice, and a hint of pepper.  This vintage is very food friendly, so fire up the grill and pop a cork. Spring is just around the corner!




Ryan's Review
Calistoga Cellars 2005 Zinfandel
$17.94


This delicious offering from Calistoga Cellars is a full-bodied blend of 85% Zinfandel and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon that has been aged 18 months in new French oak.  This complex yet approachable fruit forward creation has a strong yet inviting nose of candied cherries, dark berries and a hint of smoke.  I was pleasantly surprised to discover the finesse of this bottle as the rich flavors slowly unfolded, revealing wild cherries, licorice, pepper, and vanilla.  The finish is marked by beautifully structured tannins, and a firm acidity that is balanced by the smooth new French oak.  The addition of 15% Cab serves to add body and complexity to this taste bud assailant.  The richness and complexity of this bottle lends itself as a food friendly wine that would be best paired with a spicy pasta dish, grilled meats, lamb and pork.  You will not be disappointed! Cheers!


Todd's Review
Alexander Valley 2005 Sin Zinfandel
$21.99

Subtle enough to pair with food, yet supple enough to stand alone, the Sin Zin offers something for everyone. Dark fruit flavors make an immediate appearance, followed by hints of mild spice and dark chocolate. The finish is short and smooth - think of a houseguest that knows just the right time to leave. If pizza or peppery red meat is on the menu tonight, look no further than this refreshingly mellow red Zin.




Tim's Review
Tin Barn 2004 Gillson
$16.99

Tin Barn Zinfandel pours a deep ruby red with a nose that has a soft jamminess and a touch of earthiness. The taste is somewhat tame, consisting of light plum flavors and more of the jam that we detected in the initial nose. The finish dominates the palate with a strong spiciness and a hint of cracked pepper. The taste that lingers is not too dry and lasts a few seconds before it dissipates. This wine would benefit from food pairing, possibly with some sharp cheddar, sausage, or dark chocolate.




Gary's Review
Gnarly Head 2006 Zinfandel
$10.69

Gnarly Head's Zinfandel is a quality wine at a good price point. Immediately after uncorking the bottle, one detects pleasant aromas of cooked berries and spice emanating from the glass. The wine’s overall taste varies from fresh and ripe, to a slightly baked and rustic finish. So if you looking for a crowd pleasing bottle of “splunk”, or just something to serve with pizza, Gnarly Head would be a fine choice.




Jim's Review
Rancho Zabaco Dry Creek Valley
2004 Reserve Zinfandel $17.29

A deep, ruby color is the first thing that greets the eyes with this boastful Sonoma Zinfandel. A pleasant nose of cherries, blackberries, and highland mulberries prime the palate for what’s to follow: a true “Zin Zone” explosion of fruit, earthiness and good karma. A nice, medium dryness completes this masterful offering. It compliments grilled meats or any hearty pasta dish. For a mid-range priced Zinfandel, this Rancho Zabaco selection should be high on your list!!!




Ruby's Review
Joel Gott 2006 Zinfandel $16.99

This is an amusing little zinfandel. Not too bold, but it definitely will not disappoint the true Zinophile. It has rich black fruit balanced by firm tannins so it doesn’t melt into a fruit bomb. There is a hint of oak up front that adds to the spice. This is basically a medium bodied Zin, but the finish is long and leaves the taste of a chocolate covered cherry lingering on the palate.  

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