Pinot Noir—“One Wine to rule them all...”
At times we are all posed one of those “What if...” questions. This one was: What would be the one type of wine you would choose to drink, if it were the only one you would ever be allowed to drink for the rest of your life?” After a moment’s thought of a Trockenbeerenauslese (no, that would be my death’s bed wine) there could be only one heartfelt choice—Pinot Noir. My task in this month’s newsletter is to convince you that it should also be yours.
Pinot Noir is one of the world’s most noble grapes. Many would include Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Nebbiolo. Some others might venture Zinfandel, Riesling, Merlot or Sangiovese, but I believe we could all agree that the Holy Trinity would be Pinot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Let’s dismiss the Chard first, because I feel like drinking a red. Then the Cab, because, well, just because it isn’t a Pinot. At times we have to make these arbitrary decisions in our lives. Well, but why settle on Pinot then? Simply put: it is the best there is. Hedonistic. Pure pleasure. An ability to serve and soothe both the spiritual and the corporeal need. I love to cook, and eat, and drink a nice wine with what I cook. This is why Pinot is the one to rummage around for when you heed the call to cook--its versatility.
Pinot fills the bill to complement soft or runny cheeses. It is a Brit’s first choice to pair with beef; is exquisite with fowl, be it something as simple as a garlicky roast chicken or as elegant as sauteéd duck breast with a raspberry or cherry sauce. It is the one red wine to serve with a side of salmon. Think pasta with morel cream sauce. Quiche. Veal chops and frites. Pork (or anything) Dijonnaise. My mentor in teaching me about fine wines was the owner of one of the landmarks of Tulsa fine dining, the Razor Clam. He offered many fabulous Burgundies on the wine list. George was also a tremendous home chef, who was fond of saying “if the food isn’t right, we’ll just throw it out and suffer through the La Tache!” If one reads many reviews of various wines, one sees the word “perfume” used over and over again to describe the nose of a quality Pinot Noir more than any other varietal. And what an intoxicating perfume it is! Raspberries and cherries, notes of earth and mushrooms, sometimes an elusive whiff of animal and barnyard, but in a good sense. If you’ve had a worthy one, you know how hard it is to describe the ineffable, essential core of this wine, but you long for the opportunity to attempt to do so again.
Maybe I’ve sold you now on the perfection of Pinot. So where’s the rub? Ah, now the dark side creeps in. Pinot is expensive. Prohibitively so, in most cases. It is one of those little paradoxes, a little “gotcha” moment. Pinot Noir is notoriously finicky to grow. Its tightly-packed grape bunches are prone to rot. Pinot becomes insipid, washed out and vegetal when over-cropped, but the astronomical price it commands only encourages an unscrupulous grower to get the most juice from his vines. When handled by growers, vintners or negociants intent on offering the finest product they can provide, however, the result is ethereal.
Pinot is choosy about where it grows the best. The apogee of Pinot production is in the Burgundy region of France, where they have tinkered around for fifteen centuries before it was determined that this small area about 150 miles southeast of Paris should be devoted to the grape. Burgundy’s vineyards are fragmented, in comparison with Bordeaux. The French Revolution first wrested the land from the nobility and distributed it to the people, then Napoleonic law decreed that this land should be divided equally among the heirs. This has resulted in farmers owning a couple of rows of vines in a heralded vineyard. Bordeaux, being farther away from Paris, was spared this consequence. First-growth chateaux such as Lafite or Latour own 150-200 acres of vines and produce 20,000+ cases of wine. In contrast, the Grand Cru level vineyard Chambertin consists of only 32 acres, but has 23 proprietors making wine from its vines. One producer may therefore only have a mere 20 cases to sell to a clamoring world market. The illustrious Romaneé Conti, arguably the most desired of all Burgundies, is a whopping 4.3 acres and offers perhaps 700 cases of elixir each vintage. Demand simply is outstripping supply, especially as the wealthy Asian market recognizes the delights Burgundy can deliver. Another frustration that makes Burgundy the most challenging wine region in the world to learn about: the sheer plethora of names and sites associated within this small area, and the tremendous variation of quality that is inherent with this huge number of players out to make a Euro. And speaking of the Euro, the current deteriorating exchange rate jacks the price up even more. Woe be we!
The West Coast has shown great progress in approaching the finesse Burgundy offers, but is still in the trial and error stage of learning just what mixture of soils and sun exposure, elevation and which particular Burgundian clone will come together to produce the best Pinot. Terroir is the operative word here, as in France. The Central Coast and Russian River areas of California show great promise, with new labels showing up in our market each year. The various “Santa” appellations-- Barbara, Maria, Lucia Highlands and Rita Hills, and the Bien Nacido Vineyard in particular, are all sources of exceptional fruit both from a cadre of growers, and for the dedicated vintners who search out the best raw materials. Old time lovers of California Pinot will fondly remember the variety of Acacia and Calera offerings for sale in Oklahoma years ago. Chalone and David Bruce are two other names that were ahead of the curve. Oregon touts climates similar to that found in Burgundy. Ken Wright, Raptor Ridge, Domaine Serene and Bergström are names worth searching out for high quality Oregon Pinot. Unfortunately, these wines will set the aspiring Burghound back $40 and up per bottle, making it difficult to sample and learn about the joys of Pinot Noir. While one can find wines in the $12-20 dollar range, they tend to be quite adequate, fruity red wines, but will not offer the gustatory blast the more expensive bottlings will provide.
On a side note, I am sold on the performance of Riedel’s Sommelier Grand Cru Burgundy glass. As I saw the prices of good Pinot rapidly accelerate past my ability or desire to pay, I learned that by investing close to $90 for this light bulb-thin vessel, a less expensive Pinot tastes much better than expected, and a top-tier wine becomes legendary. Yea, Technology!
An old French proverb states: “ Burgundy for kings, Champagne for duchesses, Claret for gentlemen.” Improve your station in life! It’s a simple as swinging by the Ranch to become a king tonight!
--Tom Clark
Beer News
I recently attended an industry trade show hosted by one of our wholesalers and had the opportunity to find out what will be the freshest suds appearing on the beer horizon. BridgePort will bring in their seasonal Haymaker Extra Pale Ale and another new Point, Horizon Wheat, joins the line-up of this well-received newcomer. Abita Jockamo IPA migrates north from New Orleans. Even more exciting will be two new brews in the Signature Series by Choc: a Belgian Dubbel and a Belgian amber. Look for them in June, according to brewmaster Michael Latti. Fans of true Pilsner will be thrilled that Budvar, excuse me, Czechvar, will be back again after an all-too-long hiatus. Of further interest, Tulsa’s own Eric Marshall has just fired up the brew kettles, with a batch of McNellie’s Pub Ale to be the inaugural brew. And finally we have a late breaking beer news update: A hot new series of beers just arrived from Boulevard Brewery in Kansas City. A Quadrupel, a Tripel, an IPA and a Saison are offered in Belgian-style 750ml corked and caged bottles. Hurry,as availability is limited! |
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| Damon's
Review
Adelsheim 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
$29.99
This is a pure and elegant Pinot Noir from one of Oregon’s finest wine producers. Initial cherry and plum overtones dominate this almost Bugundy styled offering, followed by a lingering, slightly spicy finish. Try pairing this wine with grilled salmon, duck, or just about any vegetarian fare. You won’t be disappointed! |
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| Mary's
Review
Copain Pinot Noir “Tous Ensemble” 2006
Anderson Valley, California
$32.99
This is the perfect Pinot for those of you that enjoy both the old world and new world styles. The nose is of bright cherry fruit with some nice leather and smoke. The palate covers all the tastes you would ever want to have from Pinot Noir – nice clean fruit, leather, tobacco, oak, smoke, and some spice to accent everything. Even at $32.99, I still consider this wine a best buy. |
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| Clark's
Review
Salentein Pinot Noir 2003
Valley de Uco, Argentina 100% Pinot Noir
$19.99
Light ruby color with generous aromas of cherries and smoke. Vanilla and berry flavors dominate the palate. The finish is chocolaty with a hint of spice. A touch of oak is also evident. Sweet tannins round out this full flavored Pinot Noir. Yummy! Try with grilled salmon.
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| Tom's Review
2006 Philippe Colin Bourgogne
$22.29
Bourgogne is the lowest tier in the Burgundy ranking system. The designation means that it can come from anywhere within the Burgundy appellation, and may even contain Premier Cru wines. They are most often blends from several vineyards and/or growers, but it does not imply they are wines of inferior quality. It all comes down to the producer or negociant, and the standards they uphold for what they sell. The superwoman of Burgundy, Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy of Domaine Leroy, and her co-proprietor of the Domaine Romaneé-Conti, Aubert de Villaine, both craft an exceptional generic Bourgogne. We often have the latter wine, but one must head to the Show Me state to find a bottle of Leroy. That being said, the Philippe Colin Bourgogne passes muster. It offers up a cherryish nose and reasonable depth of flavor, with a touch of spice and earth. Are there better deals in a red wine for dinner? Yes. Are there better examples of a French Burgundy at this price? Lamentably, probably not, although you might be intrigued to compare the Colin with Louis Latour’s Domaine de Valmoissine, or with the Bourgognes by Aubert Villaine or negociant Joseph Faiveley.
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| Clayton's Review
Van Duzer 2005 Estate Pinot Noir
$27.79
As springtime has arrived in full force for Tulsa, I find it quite fitting that I am drinking wine poured from a bottle with the Greek god Zephyr sweeping across the label. Zephyr is the messenger god of springtime and of the gentle west wind, which just so happens to help create an ideal growing climate for Van Duzer’s pinot noir. This particular pinot has long been a favorite of mine and this year’s vintage was no exception. A wonderfully complex aroma of fresh fruit introduced me to one of the most well balanced wines I have ever tasted. Equal notes cherry and raspberry smoothly transition into a complex balance with hints of vanilla, currant, and nutmeg. Light as the deity on her label, this pinot is one of the smoothest I have tasted with only minimal acidity helping to embolden its fruit. Alas, I am in love (sorry ladies) and her name is Van Duzer. Having her over for dinner I would highly suggest serving something on the lighter side like a pasta dish with vegetables or perhaps a light dessert. However you decide to pair it, this wine is certain to brighten your spring.
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| Joe Shula's Review
Montes 2007 Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley, Chile $14.89
Wow! No other word better describes this surprising Chilean Pinot Noir. Montes ages this Casablanca Valley Pinot for eight months in French oak giving the wine a nice, delicate balance of vanilla and fruit. Soft red berries, fresh strawberries and floral tones blend beautifully and compliment the velvety mouth feel that this wine allows you to experience. The next time you are in the mood to try a new Pinot Noir, don't be afraid to look towards Chile. Who knows, you might end up saying “Wow” yourself!
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| Ryan's Review
2006 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir
$19.99
This delicious Pinot from the Yarra Valley of Australia offers an exciting and different take on this lighter bodied red that has taken the wine world by storm in the last few years. This supple yet spicy creation bursts with rich notes of wild cherries and coffee that linger on the palate. Look forward to the long smooth finish that is indicative of a well-made wine that is sure to catch your attention. I am personally a huge fan of Pinot Noir, and have loved this bottle since the first time I tasted their 2005 vintage. I hope you will enjoy it as much as I have.
Cheers!
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Tim's Review
FireSteed Pinot Noir
$22.99
FireSteed Pinot Noir pours a juicy cranberry red color. Initially, the wine smells of earthy, ripe plums with a touch of sawdust. Mouth feel is light to medium with a slightly dry finish. Subtle minerality is balanced by oak and hints of highland mulberries. Somewhat tannic for a Pinot but still really nice.
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Gary's Review
MacMurray Pinot Noir 2005 $15.49
Options, variety, and selection are the norm these days in the American Pinot market. This Central Coast Pinot Noir from MacMurray offers surprising complexity at an affordable price. There's a fair amount of fruit, spice, a bit of earth, and oak that not all Pinots at this price point can boast of. The boldest flavors overall are tart strawberry and tangy cranberry. However, MacMurray is not just a “new world” Pinot fruit bomb. There are also hints of fresh mushrooms and oak to round out the wine’s character. Compared to other Pinots of similar price, I find this wine to be more enjoyable and quite a bargain!
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Jim's Review
Kenwood Pinot Noir 2006
$18.99
My selection for a California Pinot Noir is Kenwood’s 2006 Russian River Pinot Noir. Upon initial inspection, I was greeted by a rich and beautiful garnet color and an equally impressive nose of mixed berries, Chinese Bing cherries, and currants. The lure of the bouquet was exceeded by taste of the wine that followed! This wine possesses a velvety smooth introduction that further displays tastes of the fruits mentioned above. The balance of these fruits is superb and there is and even finish that isn’t overwhelmed by overriding tannins. I feel this selection drinks like a more expensive Pinot Noir. Please try one and see if you agree!!!
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Ruby's Review
Methven Pinot Noir 2005 Eola Hills
$25.99
This Pinot Noir is absolutely delightful! It has a fragrant, somewhat floral nose. It gives you bright black cherry and plum flavors throughout. From the heart of Willamette Valley this wine comes from young vines in the Eola Hills. It is finished in 2nd and 3rd year oak barrels, which gives a wonderful spiciness to the wine. This wine is well crafted and shows that a lot of love and detail went into this wine, making it one of the best buys around for fewer than thirty dollars! Go ahead, treat yourself, you deserve it and this wine will reward you!
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Todd Review
Rodney Strong Pinot
$19.19
Firmer and more full-bodied than many of its peers, Rodney’s Strong’s Pinot offers taste and texture without demanding the sacrifice of value. Dark cherry flavors surface at first sip, before broadening to include gentle notes of oak, smoke, and vanilla. The finish is smooth, yet never overwhelming. Light enough for a summertime lunch, yet well rounded and compelling enough to entertain discerning guests, this is the rare affordable Pinot that can rise to meet many needs. |
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Ranch Acres
Wine & Spirits • 918.747.1171
3324-A East 31st - Tulsa
Open Monday - Saturday from
10:00 am to 9:00 pm
Fax: 918.743.8476
E-mail: ranchacreswine@aol.com
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